Ireland

Why go?    Ireland has long been on my bucket list - but, this was my first opportunity to visit. I had always heard great things about Dublin, and I wanted to explore the western coast - especially the Skellig Ring, which Lonely Planet touted as a top place to visit in 2017.   The Skellig Ring is located on the Ring of Kerry - a 179 km loop that boasts some of the best scenery in Ireland.  

Learn the language.   We heard the term "slainte" (pronounced slahn-cheh) a lot while in pubs in Ireland.  It is basically their version of "cheers," and means "good health."  

Get there.   We arrived using a budget airline called WOW that left from Reykjavik to Dublin.  Once you exit the airport, there is a cheap shuttle bus that takes you right downtown.  

Read before you go.  Leading up to this part of the trip, I read Dubliners by James Joyce.  It is a collection of short stories that highlight typical lives in and around the city during the early 20th century.   One quote that struck me was:   "Real adventures, I reflected, do not happen to people who remain at home:  they must be sought abroad."  

Weather advice.   Our decision to come in the Spring meant that the weather would be a bit chilly and rainy, but it also meant that the island was amazingly green.

Expenses.  Ireland ended up being about 2% of our budget and 3% of our time - which made it fairly reasonable for Europe.  Our big splurge was eating at Chapter One in Dublin.  

Teachable moment.   In Ireland, I learned to be calm while a bit out of my comfort zone.  I was excited to see the Irish countryside, but I was a bit nervous about driving, since they drive on the other side of the road (the reason for this goes all the way back to horses and right-handed swordsmen).   Our cabbie had some (helpful/not helpful) advice in telling me to "just look forward." Our rental car, it turns out, was only two days old according to our cashier, with "not a scratch on her."   (It was also the size of a sheep).  I was relieved to see that the foot pedals for the manual transmission were the same as in the US, although shifting with my left hand was interesting. My first challenge would be to drive through Dublin's city center - with our hotel perched at the top of one-lane, two-way street.  

Three “Must Do’s”

• Must eat.   Chapter One - this was our big splurge in Ireland.  Chapter One is a Michelin-starred restaurant located in the basement of the Dublin Writers' Museum, which is where it gets its name (and it was also owned by George Jameson himself at one time).  My wife has posted a full review of the food here, but I will comment on my favorite part of the meal.  After dinner, and they offered me an Irish Coffee done table side.  I went for it, and the waiter rolls out this huge cart with a burner.  He lights the burner, and begins to toast sugar on a pan.  After a few seconds, he takes a shot of Jameson and throws it on the sugar, which explodes into flame immediately (and everyone in the restaurant turns to watch).  He then takes a carafe of coffee and dumps it on the flame - and then follows that with another pouring of Jameson.  After a few minutes of simmering, he dumps the concoction into a highball glass, and tops it with some Irish cream.  After one taste, I can say it was the best thing I had to eat or drink in Ireland, and I would recommend it to anyone.    
• Most impactful experience.  Guinness Brewery at St. James Gate -  This was a bit pricey (20 euros/person) also, but is a must-do if you visit Dublin. The self-guided tour lasts about an hour, and they walk you through the proper way to taste and pour a Guinness.  At the end, you can hang out in the "Gravity Bar," which has amazing 360 views of Dublin.  One thing to note, you do not actually see any Guinness being brewed on the tour (our cabby hypothesized that, since Diageo bought the brewery, they may be brewing Budweiser instead, so seeing the actual brewery may be a disappointment to tourists).  
• Must Visit.   The Cliffs of Moher are located in County Clare, and the cost of admission is €6 per person.  The interesting thing is, the 'Visitor Center' grounds stop about halfway up, and you are advised to proceed 'at your own risk' to get better views.  Now, those who know me, know that I have a fear of heights - so, this was a bit unsettling, but I pressed onwards.  I was amazed at the bravery (read: stupidity) of many onlookers who insisted on walking right up to the edge (which the signs suggested meant imminent death).  My wife and I sat and people-watched for awhile, while taking in the scenery, and I continually flashed a meditation exercise to push myself to be as present in the moment as possible.  It was truly a momentous experience.  

The Wrap.  I'm currently writing this post in the airport in Dublin waiting for our flight to Bristol, which has been delayed, but it has given me time to think and reflect.  The people of Ireland were incredibly hospitable, and the food, the pubs, the countryside all lived up to expectations.   Eight days was not nearly enough, and we already have a list of things we would like to see on our return trip - so, we will definitely be back!

Bonus:  Kissing the Blarney Stone.