France

Why go?   Thomas Jefferson once said -"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and the point of life."  I tended to view all of France this way, and was interested to experience a culture that has influenced much of Western culture.  That said, we knew France offered too much to see in one trip, so we narrowed our focus to Paris, Lyon, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Provence.  

Speak the language.  I think the thing I said the most in French was "Je parle un peu," which was an answer to the question "Do you speak French?"  It means "I speak a little."  The French are generally forgiving of your French, as long as you try to converse, but they will also not shy away in telling you how terrible your accent is... 

Get there.   It is remarkably easy to get around France.  We took a train from Manchester to Paris.  Then, took a train from Paris to Lyon - then, rented a car and drove to Burgundy and then Bordeaux.  After Spain, we took a train through Provence on our way to Italy.  

Read before you go.  In preparation for the trip (and during), I read several books that helped give some context.  First, prior to leaving, I read a "Paris, Paris:  City of LIghts," by David Downie, which is well-written, and gives valuable insights to some of the main attractions of the city.  Additionally, while in Paris, I read Hemingway's "A Moveable Feast" for the first time, which gives you an enjoyable first-hand account of Paris as it existed for American expats in the 1920s.  I was also able to read "Seven Ages of Paris" by historian Alistair Horne - this book is long, but contains some great stories.  I would recommend all three, if you are planning a trip to Paris.   In preparation for the trip, I read "A Year in Provence" by Peter Mayle, which is his 1986 account of he and his wife's first year in Provence after leaving England. 

While researching the wine regions of France, one additional book of note is "Adventures on the Wine Route" by Kermit Lynch.  It was published in the late 80s, so some references are dated, but the writing style gives great context and history into the various French wine regions.  Of Burgundy he said, "In Burgundy, you cannot talk about a 'best' wine.  Such an ideal bottle that all the others are trying to imitate does not exist.  Every bottle does not want to be the same.  Diversity is one of the qualities that make Burgundy glorious."  

Weather advice.   Spring in France, like Spain, is perfect.   Paris is alive - but not crawling with tourists.  It is still a bit chilly, but the air is beautiful and fresh.  

Expenses.  France was about 7% of our budget and 11.5% of our time.  Our big expenses were the wine tour at Chateau Mouton Rothschild and the meal at Maison Lameloise.  

Teachable moment.   For those planning a trip to Europe, make sure you follow the restrictions covered in the Schengen Agreement.  We had not worried too much about Visa requirements, until we started calculating how long we had been in Europe, and realized that it was over 90 days.  Luckily, some of that time was in the UK and Ireland, which are not subject to the Schengen Visa, so our time will be just within the requirement.  That said, if folks are planning a longer-term trip to the area, make sure you do not overstay - apparently, it can have some real consequences.  

Three “Must Do’s”

• Must eat.   Our first night in Burgundy, we ate at Pierre and John.  This restaurant is owned and operated by the same people as Maison Lameloise.  The food is amazing and there is a pre-fixe menu that makes it really affordable (we got out of there for 75 euros, including wine and dessert).  The service was light and unpretentious and they were great at handling my wife's allergies.  Our second night, we ate and stayed at Maison Lameloise, which is a Michelin three-star restaurant run by Chef Éric Pras.  The place is really nice, but they were less helpful with my wife's allergies... and, if I'm being honest, I think the better value was Pierre and John.  
• Most impactful experience.  There are five first growth classification wineries in Bordeaux, and as of 1973,  Chateau Mouton Rothschild is one of them (the best of the best).  There are plenty of stories around the arbitrary nature of this classification and the inherent politics that led to these distinctions, so feel free to read and judge for yourself.  Nevertheless, this winery, located in Paulliac in the Medoc Region is widely known to produce some of the best Bordeaux available.  The tour itself is pricey (55 euros per person), but it is well done.  Their new winemaking facility was finished in 2015 and is a work of art - they hold several patents for new vat technologies.  However, even with all the technology available, they still employ over 500 pickers for the grape harvest.  The tour includes the vineyards, the production facilities, the barrel rooms, and the private collection art museum of Baron Rothschild (the highlight of which is original artwork for each of the annual wine labels, which include Miro, Dali, and Warhol).  Lastly (and most importantly), you get to taste three wines, only one of which is a Chateau Mouton Rothschild - but the pour was a healthy one.  We tasted a 2007 - the nose is all smoke due to the heavy toasting of their oak barrels, but the wine is incredibly jammy and well-balanced.  Definitely a great experience. 
• Must Visit. The Musee d'Orsay has one of the best impressionist artwork collections that I have ever seen.   While we were there, we took in the "Beyond the Stars" exhibit, which showcased Van Gogh, Monet, and many others.  

The Wrap.  Our smartest move was taking our time in the fourteen days we had to explore and experience Paris.  We truly enjoyed our time and hope to return. 

We also received some great life advice on this leg of the trip.  In a vegan cafe in Bordeaux, we met an Irish yoga teacher who had lived there for over ten years.   She noticed our English (or terrible French), and we began talking about what had brought each of us to the wine capital.  She talked about her past, which involved living abroad in Japan among other things.  Her advice to us, based on her experience, was that things take time and unfold at their own pace, and that we should not be expecting anything different.  Later that evening I reflected on how I imagined that this trip would change me, and I wondered whether it already had.  I took comfort in being reminded that these things take time - and they will unfold, at their own pace.   

 Shameless selfie at the "Love Wall"