Italy

Why go?    We could have easily stayed the entire 26 days of our Italy trip in one city and not seen everything.  There is so much to see in each place that you are typically having to make tradeoffs every day.  In fact, according to UNESCO, over one third of the world's art treasures reside in Florence - which is mind-boggling.  That said, we had a few bucket list items that were definites in Italy:  hiking the Cinque Terre, and taking a gondola ride in Venice.  

Speak the language.  I know absolutely no Italian, but I ended up getting by with enthusiastic "Buongiorno!" which means "good morning."  (Also, "buonasera!" if you are going to dinner means "good evening.")

Get there.   We took a train from Eze in Provence to the Monterosso Al Mare train station at the start of the Cinque Terre.  Trains are absolutely the best way to get around Italy - despite their occasional tardiness.  

Read before you go.  I read several books to prepare for Italy, and the one recommendation I can give (outside of a good Lonely Planet guide) is to read Medici by Paul Strathern.  It is a collection of stories about the Medici family, their rise to power, and their ultimate impacts on Italy (and the world) during the 15th and 16th centuries.  The narrative is really interesting, and it ended up giving solid historical context for a lot of the things that we encountered on our trip.

Weather advice.   We were getting close to summer in Italy, so it was prime tourist season.  We booked our hotels and trains early, so there was no issue, but places could be crowded at times.  

Expenses.  Italy was about 12% of our budget and 10% of our time, which made it a bit expensive (this was also due to our timing being a visit in peak season).  Our big costs were the gondola ride in Venice and the guided early bird tour of the Sistine Chapel.  

Teachable moment.   Those who know me and have seen me in social interactions know that I prefer efficiency in processes and design - and in that case, Italy can be a bit maddening.  The trains are typically late, there is no rhyme or reason to ticket queues, and food service can be extremely slow or non-existent.  That said, since this trip afforded us some latitude in timing,  we were mindfully prepared for this, and planned accordingly.  And this is a recommendation for those who plan to visit - you simply have to accept that this is how it will be.  There is no malicious intent - this is just how Italians live 'la dolce vita.'    

Three “Must Do’s”

• Must eat.  The food in Italy was second to none (including France and Spain), but if you end up in Florence, do yourself a favor, and go to Le Fontecine.  It has a reputation for being one of the friendliest places in town, and also for serving great bistecca alla fioritina.  They also have an amazing house Sangiovese for less than $20/bottle.  Go and spend the money on high-quality beef, and enjoy it with cheap and delicious wine.  
• Most impactful experience.  Hiking the Cinque Terre had been on my bucket list for a long time, and it did not disappoint.  Do at least one hike to get a taste of the experience.  Without doing the full five villages, I would stay in one of the larger towns (Riomaggiore or Monterrosso), and hike to one of the smaller towns - our favorite was Corniglia.  The people are extremely hospitable and polite, and the food is amazing (also - there is nothing like a cold Italian lager after hiking straight up a mountain for 2 km).  
• Must Visit.  We spent the extra money on a curated tour of the Sistine Chapel that gave us entry before the Vatican museum opened to the public.  This was a bit more expensive than the usual ticket, but absolutely worth it in my opinion.  Our guide was great, and gave us some extra anecdotes and context - and seeing the frescos without being rushed or pushing through a crowd is the only way to do it.  The scope of the work is remarkable - and thinking about Michelangelo spending over sixteen years of his life in this one room is mind-blowing (in a time where one's life expectancy was around 35).  

The Wrap.  It was ridiculous to try and group all of these experiences into one blog post (which is why it took so long to write), but separating them did not make sense either.  Italy has always been a loose collection of towns and cities with their own unique look and feel.  But, whether it is the perfectly foamed espresso, the infuriating horns on tiny scooters, or the wildly gesticulating hands during a conversation - you are always aware that you are indeed in Italy.  From its expansive chapters of history, to its food, to the scenery, it has something for everyone - and, in my case, each place was truly inspiring.  And, to underline my earlier point, if you want to really get a sense of it, take your time and explore - you will find some of the most extraordinary things and amazing people in the world.  

Bonus Gondola ride shot